Africa’s fashion legacy cannot leave women behind - Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe

Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe

In South Africa, as globally, women represent the majority of fashion school graduates. Yet, as they progress along their professional journey, from classroom to boardroom, women face a daunting reality: they lose out on opportunities and represent a minority of decision-makers in the fashion industry. One of the primary reasons for this disparity lies in the persistent bias between the roles of "designer" and "leader."

Within the fashion industry, young designers often find themselves at a crossroads. They can either launch their own label, committing to securing capital to expand and experiment, or they can climb the ladder of an established fashion house, with the eventual goal of becoming a creative director. However, in Africa, where the fashion industry is still nascent, the path to success is fraught with challenges. The rise of what will one day become Africa’s legacy fashion brands is underway, and young designers on the continent, with no other options, are building their own enterprises from the ground up. These designers are navigating an unfamiliar, competitive landscape while striving to attract the necessary capital to thrive. Additionally, they must cultivate an ecosystem for their businesses where none currently exists, creating a luxury-discerning community for a sector still developing.

Among those pioneering this space are acclaimed designers such as Thebe Magugu, Maxhosa Africa, and Sindiso Khumalo. These designers are reshaping the business side of the industry, setting the stage for the future of fashion in Africa. But creating a lasting legacy takes time, and, crucially, it takes more than just great design. To truly dominate the luxury fashion space, it requires exceptional business acumen and a commitment to longevity.

However, there’s a critical challenge at play here that disproportionately affects women. Women are less likely to be promoted into leadership roles, with fewer than 20% of women occupying executive positions in JSE-listed companies. Compounding this, women-led businesses receive a fraction of the investment allocated to their male counterparts, with less than 5% of venture capital directed towards businesses founded by women. This lack of access to capital makes it exceedingly difficult for women designers to emerge as the legacy brands of tomorrow, depriving them of the resources they need to scale and succeed.

Globally, women in fashion have proven that their inclusion leads to bold new perspectives that drive innovation. From Coco Chanel, who revolutionised women’s fashion by introducing masculine-inspired styles, to Vivienne Westwood, whose work championed sustainability long before it became mainstream, women have agitated the status quo and inspired seismic shifts in the industry. Yet, despite their contributions, female founders, in a sector traditionally undercapitalised, face difficulty to break through.

At Africa Fashion International, we recognise the urgent need to build an inclusive fashion ecosystem that empowers young designers. Through initiatives like AFI Fastrack, we are ensuring that design graduates are equipped with the leadership and business acumen they need to establish and run successful fashion houses on the continent.

Fashion is more than just artistry. It is a business where productivity and pay across the value chain must be integrated into the creative process. For women in particular, being able to seek power, discuss money, and assert leadership is essential for advancing their careers and the industry as a whole. If we fail to empower women to lead, we risk limiting their potential and, by extension, the potential of the entire industry.

For the designers who are already shaping the continent’s fashion scene, there is a looming threat. As these acclaimed talents gain international recognition, they are at risk of being poached by established global luxury houses, which threatens the longevity and legacy of the African fashion industry. To safeguard the future of African fashion, we must prioritise inclusion and eliminate the bias that limits access to leadership opportunities and capital.

The global fashion landscape is rapidly evolving. Advances in technology and the increasing demand for sustainability have made the industry dynamic and ripe for transformation. It is no longer necessary to have experience at internationally renowned fashion houses to succeed in this space. Instead, it is the new generation of designers with fresh, innovative ideas, who are focused on textiles, craftsmanship, and unique retail models, that are driving the new face of luxury.

Africa’s lack of an established legacy fashion sector presents a unique opportunity. Rather than attempting to replicate the European luxury aesthetic, Africa has the chance to forge a new path – one rooted in innovation, sustainability, and a redefinition of what luxury truly means. But for this vision to become a reality, we need more designers to understand the profound impact their businesses can have, not just as creatives, but as leaders.

At the heart of African culture is a belief in inclusion, collaboration, and community. These ideals must guide the future of the African fashion industry, to make it a legacy worth passing down.

Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe, Founder and Chief Executive of Africa Fashion International
BUSINESS REPORT