Chef Lebo Phala celebrates Heritage Day by reclaiming African food culture through fine dining

As South Africa marked Heritage Day in September, Pretoria East based chef and entrepreneur Lebo Phala used food as a lens to celebrate culture, identity and sustainability. Through her business HL Culinary, Phala reclaimed indigenous African cuisine and placed it firmly on the fine dining stage.

“Our ancestors had a thorough understanding of living in balance with the natural world,” Phala said. “It is from this premise that we need to recognise and start embracing indigenous foods.”

Born in Mohlaletse Village in Ga Sekhukhune, Limpopo, Phala grew up surrounded by the traditions of African cooking. Her earliest inspiration came from her late mother who sold meals to locals and cooked with intention and warmth. “My mother did not just feed stomachs, she fed spirits. I carried that same legacy in every dish I created,” Phala said.

Her formal journey began at Capsicum Culinary Studio in 2019, where she earned her diploma in food preparation and cooking. By 2022 she launched HL Culinary, a multifaceted brand that combined a fine dining restaurant, catering, pop up eateries and a line of indigenous food products such as dried morogo and thelele.

“HL Culinary was a space where community, creativity and culture met. We served more than food, we served memories,” she explained.

Phala’s approach to indigenous fine dining elevated traditional dishes with contemporary techniques. Plates such as ting ya mabele paired with beetroot glazed trout, umngqusho risotto and smoked rooibos infused lamb ribs offered a balance of heritage and innovation. “I wanted to be known as a pioneer of African food culture globally through books, television and mentorship,” she said.

That vision extended to ambitious plans, including a fine dining restaurant at OR Tambo International Airport, a culinary retreat in Limpopo and an indigenous food research studio.

Phala also ensured that storytelling remained central to her work. As a professional photographer and videographer she captured the visual narrative of African food as powerfully as its taste. “Food is culture. It is how we connect with our roots and pass on wisdom to the next generation,” she said.

Heritage Day celebrations placed a spotlight on the importance of embracing foods that nourish both body and identity. Phala often reminded her guests that eating well was not only about health but also about healing, reclaiming African identity and honouring the Earth. “If you were hungry for some delicious indigenous food, you could visit us at HL Culinary to experience the taste of real African excellence,” she said.

For Phala, business was never only about profit. It was about preserving culture, empowering women and celebrating heritage through food.

This made her culinary journey a fitting tribute to Heritage Day, reminding South Africans that their shared history and traditions could be savoured, preserved and passed on at the dining table.

BUSINESS REPORT